В математике существует список из 7 задач тысячелетия — тех задач, которые считаются неразрешимыми и за решение каждой из которых положено по миллиону долларов. Одну, кстати, решил питерский учёный-затворник Перельман, но от миллиона отказался. В богатой на события истории Сочи такие задачи тоже есть. Над задачами бьются лучшие экскурсоводы и краеведы города уже какое десятилетие, но воз и ныне там. Решили составить список из самых заскорузлых из них. Миллион за их решение мы не дадим, если только миллион воздушных поцелуев.
Сталин и Ахунская башня
Предыстория проблемы: обзорная башня на горе Ахун (Охун) была построена в 1936 году. Её строительство, равно как и строительство дороги на вершину Ахун, было включено в генеральный план реконструкции Сочи-Мацестинского курорта. В это время Сталин активно посещает Сочи, проводит на своей даче (Зензиновке, Пузановке, а затем и Госдаче №1 «Зелёная Роща») по два месяца в году. Протяжённый 5-километровый хребет Ахуна маячит перед его глазами. Вероятно, он даже туда поднимается пешком с целью обозреть окрестности Сочи, но широколиственный лес скрывает красоты ландшафта. В генеральный план включают строительство шоссе и смотровой башни не менее 30 метров высотой. К апрелю 1935 года дорогу построят, в июне 1936 сдадут в эксплуатацию башню.
Версия 1. Сталин на башне бывал. Доводы: с балкона «Зелёной Рощи» открывается прекрасный вид на башню. Вряд ли Сталин, по чьему приказу была построена башня, отказался бы на неё зайти, чтобы оценить панораму. Благо и ступеньки были сделаны под антропометрические данные вождя.
Версия 2. Сталин на башне не бывал. Доводы: до башни вело тупиковое узкое шоссе, которое было легко заблокировать. По этой причине начальник охраны Сталина генерал Н. С. Власик отсоветовал Хозяину ездить по шоссе. К тому же у Сталина был развит ревматизм, подъём на 30,5-метровую башню дался бы ему с трудом.
С высокой вероятностью: судя по тому, что некоторые дачи Сталина (Холодная речка, Рица) находились в тупиках, а дороги к ним в целом похожи на ахунскую, довод с безопасностью видится надуманным. Поэтому Сталин с высокой долей вероятности на башне бывал, но информация была засекречена или просто не обнародована. В связи с этим из тени истории выплывает не менее загадочная фигура архитектора дачи С. И. Воробьёва, о котором не известно ровным счётом ничего, даже как расшифровываются инициалы (чаще говорят, что Сергей). Ахунские смотрители рассказывают, что его расстреляли в 1938-м. Вероятно, Сталину башня не понравилась, отсюда печальная судьба архитектора. Впрочем, в мартирологе сталинских репрессий такого человека нет.
Ресторан «Ахун»
Предыстория проблемы: в 1937 году, годом позже башни, был построен ресторан цилиндрической формы с вазонами, колоннами и ротондами (архитектор Давид Числяев или, скорее всего, Константин Яковлев). Ресторан, как и вообще всё на Ахуне, был построен из известняка. Строительство обошлось в 1,5 миллиона рублей. Проработал ресторан до войны всего один летний сезон 1937 года. На следующий год перед началом сезона был обнаружен грибок в кулинарном цехе и течь в потолке. Неоднократно приезжали комиссии для установления виновных. Ресторан восстановят ориентировочно в 1947-48 году, расширив за счёт пристройки 4-этажного здания, где будет расположена кухня и общежитие. «Ахун» станет главным загородным рестораном на 30 лет, сюда будут привозить Гагарина и Броза Тито, здесь будет работать джазовый оркестр и будут снимать телефильмы. Закроют ресторан, судя по архивным данным, в 1976 году. Вопрос: почему?
Версия 1. Опять грибок.
Версия 2. Ресторан стал пользоваться дурной славой. Помимо джазового оркестра, который работал официально, здесь, по слухам, был притон, отмывали деньги, встречались криминальные авторитеты, из-под полы продавался элитный импортный алкоголь.
Версия 3. Пожар во время свадьбы, в котором погибла невеста, чей призрак можно и теперь встретить в туманную погоду на вершине Ахуна. Особенно если предварительно накатить фейкового сочинского винного напитка в дегустационном зале по соседству.
С высокой вероятностью: принадлежал «Ахун» Хостинскому тресту ресторанов и столовых, который в 1976 году уволил всех сотрудников или перевёл на другие объекты. По свидетельству очевидцев, в последние годы работы ресторан посещало меньше клиентов. Блюда были дорогими и невкусными. Сказалась, видимо, и до сих пор нерешённая проблема водоснабжения предприятий на горе Ахун — туда ездили и ездят водовозки. Были, опять же, по словам старожилов, проблемы с канализацией: отходы жизнедеятельности текли прямо по склону. В совокупности со стремительно ветшающим зданием было принято решение о закрытии ресторана на реконструкцию, которая так и не началась. У «Ахуна» повыбивают стёкла, растащат оборудование, а в 1990-е спилят весь металл, включая швеллеры кровли.
Укрупнение Сочи
Предыстория проблемы: в 1961 году решением указа Президиума Верховного Совета РСФСР «О расширении территории города Сочи и упразднении Адлерского и Лазаревского сельских районов Краснодарского края» Сочи увеличился до неприличных размеров. В новых районах начнётся строительство жилых микрорайонов, активное развитие отраслей сельского хозяйства, включая чаеводство (чайные совхозы), рыбоводство (рыбоконсервные комбинаты), плодоводства и т. д. Вопрос: в чём основная причина этого укрупнения?
Версия 1. В 1959 году Н. С. Хрущёв посетил с официальным визитом США, проехался от Атлантического океана до океана Тихого, и здесь на берегу солнечной Калифорнии увидел чудесный мегаполис Лос-Анджелес, серебристой лентой небоскрёбов вьющийся по побережью на многие километры. И захотелось первому секретарю ЦК КПСС, чтобы и в Советском Союзе была такая же курортная агломерация.
Версия 2. В том же 1959 году первый секретарь сочинского горкома партии С. Ф. Медунов встретился с Хрущёвым и на коленке объяснил ему, что Грузинская ССР засматривается на Адлерский район, якобы он очень им нужен, чтобы обеспечить продовольственную базу абхазских районов. Надо спасать Россию, подчинить Сочи Адлерский (а до кучи и Лазаревский) сельский район.
Версия 3. Хрущёв всё делал наперекор Сталину, и хотел из бальнеологической всесоюзной здравницы превратить Сочи в пляжный курорт, а поскольку в границах 1961 года пляжей было не так много, надо было их кратно увеличить.
С высокой вероятностью: вне всякого сомнения, районы вошли в состав Сочи в связи с их большой ролью в производстве сельхозпродукции, надо было обеспечивать растущий курорт картошкой, помидорами и молоком. Сказался, вероятно, и тот факт, что незадолго до этого в 1958 году Сочи лишился статуса республиканского подчинения в рамках усиления вертикальной подчинённости регионов обкомам, поэтому включение в состав курорта двух крупных сельхозрайонов можно было воспринимать как некую моральную компенсацию городу.
Сколько километров Сочи
Предыстория проблемы: в связи с укрупнением Сочи в 1961 году Сочи получил несколько комичный статус «самого протяжённого города в Евразии», «второго по протяжённости города в мире после (выберите сами) Лос-Анджелеса, Мехико, Рио-де-Жанейро». И тут же нарисовалась незыблемое число 145 километров. Этот километраж из уст в уста повторяют тысячи экскурсоводов вопреки строительству новых шоссе, отделению Сириуса и простым математическими измерениям. А сколько всё-таки километров сам Сочи?
Вариант 1. 145 километров. Или 146 километров. Загадочная цифра, которую чаще всего выводят из протяжённости старого шоссе между Псоу и Магри, двумя наиболее отдалёнными по побережью населёнными пунктами Большого Сочи. Причём мало кого смущает тот факт, что на шоссе построили как минимум Зубовский виадук и ряд новых олимпийских мостов, значительно сокративших расстояние. Вторая версия этих 145 километров — это диагональ между двумя самыми отдалёнными координатами муниципалитета (от междуречья Магри/Шепси до горы Кардывач Узловой). Но в этом случае речь с натяжкой идёт о протяжённости, да и 145 километров там тоже нет, только 132 км.
Вариант 2. 140 километров. «Это общая протяжённость городского округа Сочи, включая все 4 района и отнесённую к округу часть акватории Чёрного моря». Это фраза из Википедии, и что тут конкретно имеется в виду, мы не знаем. Но пусть будет.
Вариант 3. 130 километров. Это и есть современная протяжённость (самая короткая) по дорогам между границей в точке старого МКПП «Адлер» и Магри.
Вариант 4. 109 километров. Это длина изгиба береговой линии от точки впадения безымянного ручья в районе Магри до устья пограничной реки Псоу (это если не учитывать, что из состава Сочи вышел Сириус).
Вариант 5. 104 километра. Это протяжённость оси железной дороги от границ города на северо-западе и юго-востоке.
Вариант 6. 99 километров. Это протяжённость города вдоль моря без учёта длины изгиба моря и без учёта отделившегося Сириуса. Если ещё и его отрезать, то тогда всего 92 километра (от междуречья Магри/Псоу до устья Мзымты).
С высокой вероятностью: логичней всего мерить город по географической диагонали (132 километра) или по въездным точкам (от КПП «Магри» до МКПП «Псоу», что тоже порядка 130 километров).
Что означает «Сочи»
Предыстория проблемы: как всегда случается с этимологией древних топонимов, мы бы и рады спросить у людей, которые придумали название, да они давно умерли. С Сочи ситуация усложняется также тем, что изобретатели топонима (смело допустим, что это убыхи) вообще исчезли как этнос, растворившись в турецком государстве после махаджирства (махаджирство, мухаджирство — массовое и целенаправленное, нередко вынужденное, переселение) 1860-х годов. Поэтому о значении слова «Сочи» можно только строить догадки. А какие?
Вариант 1. Самый скучный. Вероятнее всего, местечко получило своё название по названию реки Сочи-пста. Это же название восходит к имени адыго-абхазского рода или субэтнической группы, имевших примерное название «Саджа», «Суча», «Щача».
Вариант 2. «Продай голову». Выводится примерно из адыгских корней и отсылает нас к тому, что в районе Мамайки был большой невольничий рынок, где продавали в турецкое рабство пленённых соседей.
Вариант 3. «Живущие у моря» или «народ, живущий у моря». Выводится также из примерных адыгских корней и означает, что здесь жили люди у моря. Версия критикуется чаще всего из-за того, что очень сложно в четыре звука (Сочи) вложить столько много смыслов.
Вариант 4. «Без брата». Выводится из адыгских корней и применяется в первую очередь к реке. «Без брата» имеется в виду «без притоков», так как якобы в нижнем течении река была лишена притоков. Версия весьма надуманна, поскольку как минимум Хлудовский ручей был вполне себе приличным притоком, пока его не заковали в подземные коллекторы.
Вариант 5. «Пихта». Это уже на грузинском. И никого не смущает, что пихты растут на реке Сочи только у её истоков.
С высокой вероятностью: из всех версий наиболее исторической кажется первая, потому что механизм переноса названия рода на топоним имел место повсеместно — и Дагомыс, и Лоо, и Вардане, и Адлер. Другое дело, что доказать стопроцентную правомерность этой версии крайне сложно.
Текст: Антон Павлов, частный гид по Сочи и Абхазии, русский, английский и французский языки
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