Новое место. Винный ресторан Gaya Rest

Знаете, что самое классное при рецензировании очередного нового проекта в Сочи? Это когда ты можешь раскрыть его не через какие-то базовые истории, «подчёркивая» уникальность в неуникальном. А через действительно классные тренды, которым этот проект соответствует. В случае Gaya Rest таких вот трендов сразу несколько: концептуальная комплексность, индастриал (пусть и лёгкий) и, внезапно, крутой кофе. Именно через эти три истории лучше всего и подсветить вам новенький рестобар.

Начнём с концептуальной комплексности. Помните времена, когда на завтрак нужно было идти в одно место, для деловой беседы в ланч-тайм — в другое, а ради томного винного вечера — в третье? Вот и мы потихоньку забываем. Сейчас проекты стараются оставаться актуальными в течение всего дня, закрывая сразу несколько запросов аудитории. Gaya Rest — отличный образец подобного подхода. Сложно здесь вычленить что-то доминирующее. С одной стороны, здесь, безусловно, особый акцент на завтраки. В меню несколько блюд из яиц — пашот с тамбовским окороком, скрембл с картофельным кремом, домашней сметаной и красной икрой и ещё парочка вариантов. Какие-то необычные авторские каши: пшённая с запечённой тыквой и пармской ветчиной, рисовая на кокосовом молоке с хрустящим тестом и вишней. Обязательные сырники — либо с опалённой меренгой и ягодами, либо из топлёного творога с кофейно-сливочной карамелью и ванильным мороженым. Даром что локация делится на два зала, один из которых, более светлый и просторный, соседствующий с открытой кухней, прям вот заточен именно под завтраки.

С другой стороны, Gaya Rest — это такое приятное городское кафе, что ещё сильнее раскрывается под вечер. Потому что вино. Коллекция не раздутая, но приятная. Три десятка этикеток, собранных тщательно и с любовью. Италия и Франция, Португалия и Грузия, Россия и Армения — географически охватили все ключевые регионы. Побокально предлагают примерно восемь позиций; каждый день есть возможность попробовать вино дня по настолько смешной цене, что и писать здесь не будем. Кухня же не то чтобы прям заточена под вино, но сочетается с ним так, что термин «вайн пэйринг» здесь вполне легитимен. В меню есть и «неправильная» брускетта (подаётся в форм-факторе конструктора), и пяток лёгких салатов (севиче из тунца или салат с креветками и жжёным томатом), и крайне необычная горная каша с двумя видами крупы и томлёной говяжьей щёчкой, и орзо с лангустинами. Не говоря уже о специальных сетах под вино. В общем, вполне себе и винный бар, да.

А ведь есть ещё и кофе.

Помните наш весенний спецпроект о кофе? Когда мы в его рамках беседовали о спешалти-кофе в Сочи, несколько раз звучал тезис о том, что следующий шаг в развитии индустрии — это появление ресторанов с особым, «кофейным» подходом к зерну. Что ж, Gaya Rest раскрывает этот тезис на все сто. В какой-то степени локация существует и как кофейня. В первом зале есть отдельный бар, где вы можете заказать капучино, флет уайт или какой-нибудь бамбл. Готовят всё на топовом оборудовании La Marzocco. Отдельная история — само зерно. Здесь оно от Gravitas, бренда Арсения Кузнецова, который был чемпионом мира по обжарке с 2019 по 2022 г. И вот всего этого уже было бы достаточно для нашего восхищения, однако есть одно весомое но. В Gaya Rest поставили отдельный brew-бар, чуть ли не единственный в Сочи. Причём какой! Это обособленный, невероятно стильный островок посреди второго зала, где всё встроено и интегрировано, на столе разложены карточки с расшифровкой вкуса и аромата того или иного зерна, а вам приготовят кофеёк любым альтернативным методом. Эстетика выкручена до предела.

И теперь про индастриал. Ещё одна наша извечная тема, что мы регулярно проговариваем. Проговариваем, как было бы классно, если бы новые проекты возникали не только в прилизанных туристических местах, огораживаясь от остального мира, но и посреди улочек, домов и районов. Gaya Rest расположился на цокольном этаже на пересечении улиц Горького и Советской. Контакт с миром через практически панорамное окно (что изнутри находится над головой), за которым активный трафик и людской поток. Да, что-то на Петербургском. Для Сочи выглядит крайне необычно.

Да и вообще Gaya визуально очень располагает. Мягких оттенков дерево (его очень много), растения, тактильно приятная тяжёлая посуда, правильно подобранное освещение. Время здесь сильно заземляется, и торопиться никуда не хочется. Да и не стоит. В Gaya Rest смело можно засидеться до самого вечера. Тем более вечера здесь насыщенные: от винных дегустаций до живой музыки.

 

Сочи, ул. Горького, 43 а
gayarest.ru

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