Кудепстинский дендропарк и потерянная пробковая промышленность

Во всём Сочи невозможно найти настолько интересного леса как Кудепстинский дендропарк. Это апофеоз разнообразия субтропической растительности Сочи, причём, как эндемичной (местной — прим. SCAPP), так и интродуцентной (завезённой — прим. SCAPP). Для того, чтобы этот лес стал эталонным местом для произрастания такого разнообразия флоры, территория должна обладать исключительными особенностями. Чтобы разобраться, в чём же ценность предгорий вокруг Сочи, я обратился за помощью к Владимиру Федоренко — одному из лучших специалистов по лесоведению в Сочи. Начать будет правильнее с рассказа о том, кто этот человек.

Даниил Набоков — сочинец в пятом поколении. Он старательно изучает свой город: богатую природу, историю, архитектуру, локальный колорит и менталитет местных жителей, таких же, как и он. Своими мыслями о Сочи он делится в блоге «Восторг Сочи», а ещё профессионально занимается походным туризмом и знакомит гостей города с каньонами, горами и лесами.

Мой рассказ может показаться архаичным, с прыжками на разные истории, но это осознанно. Я постараюсь передать нашу прогулку по Кудепстинскому дендропарку и пробковым плантациях так же, как вёл нас Владимир, попутно рассказывая контекст каких-то важных вещей. Мы общались на разные темы, хотелось бы передать всё, что я услышал и увидел, так, как если бы вы шли вместе с нами.

Владимир родился в Сочи, в Хостинском районе, в селе Дубравный. Он бывший научный лаборант Сочинского Национального Парка, уволился в начале 2024 года, отработав в организации более двадцати лет. Какое-то время работал в Кудепстинском лесничестве и Министерстве природных ресурсов и экологии. Образование получил в Нижегородской сельскохозяйственной академии. В процессе нашего общения я его узнал как человека очень интеллектуального и без надоедливого снобства.

Мы начали путешествие с Дубравного, прямо из дома Владимира, познакомившись с его отцом Евгением Григорьевичем, который также работал на пробковых плантациях ещё до рождения сына. На примере пробкового дуба возле участка нам показали процесс съёма коры, а это, на минуточку, тончайшая работа, требующая от мастера высокие компетенции, иначе, если сделать срез неверно, пользоваться дубом для пробковых заготовок в дальнейшем будет невозможно.

Сама кора дуба представляет собой лёгкий, немного тяжелее, чем пенопласт, пористый материал. Срезав пробковую кору, её дробят и прессуют в необходимые изделия. Самой первой ассоциацией таких изделий приходят пробки для вина и шампанского. Это всё так, но в особо крупных объёмах пробку используют в строительстве, судостроении, автомобилестроении, авиации и даже на космических аппаратах! Главное свойство пробки — тепловая и звуковая изоляция. К примеру, два сантиметра пробки удерживает тепло так же, как полметра кирпичной кладки. А всего один миллиметр пробки практически непроницаем для газа, жидкости, тепла и электричества, даже несмотря на пористую структуру. Стоит упомянуть, что пробка не вступает в реакцию с химическими веществами и великолепно работает как защита от радиации. И конечно же, у пробки полно применения в декоративных и интерьерных целях.

Выслушав рассказ о ценности пробки от Владимира и Евгения Григорьевича, мы спустились от села Дубравного в Кудепстинский лесопарк, к плантациям пробки. Сразу же нас встретили бегающие по веткам белочки. Здесь у нас началась следующая экскурсионная программа — о ценности самой территории. Владимир рассказал, что у зоны леса над Кудепстой сразу две примечательные особенности.

Во-первых, лес расположен в некой чаше, которую обрамляет отрог-хребет полукруглой формы. Эта особенность не позволяет холодным ветрам с северной стороны продувать лес в чаше, а из-за солнечной стороны Кудепстинский лесопарк особенно прогревается, поэтому в селе Дубравный, в лесу и на плантациях дуба температура на 2–3 градуса выше, чем в ближайших микрорайонах.

Во-вторых, в отличие от многих горных рельефов субтропического Сочи, породы камня, находящиеся под лесом, преобладают песчаником, а не известняком. Песчаник — это кладезь минералов для питания растительности, поэтому лес настолько изобилует всевозможной флорой. Грубо говоря, растения всё время подкрепляются витаминами из породы песчаника, которые им так нужны для активного роста.

Лесной эксперимент

Учитывая вышеперечисленные факторы, несложно догадаться, что лес над Кудепстой — это рай для субтропической флоры, практически с идеальными условиями жизни. Зная об этом, научные сотрудники в 30-е годы прошлого века начали использовать данный лес для экспериментальных целей. В то время со многих уголков мира привозили растения, которые в теории могли бы прижиться в Сочи. Стояла задача озеленить город и сделать его максимально насыщенным в плане растительности. А привезённые растения нужно было где-то высаживать и наблюдать за ними: как они приживаются в сочинской среде, как они конкурируют или взаимодействуют друг с другом. Для такого эксперимента лучшим образом подходил Кудепстинский лес, который превратился из лесопарка в дендропарк!

Кстати, чтобы реализовать данный эксперимент, пришлось жестоко поступить с изначальным лесом. Логика в том, что территорию нужно было очистить от почти всей аборигенной флоры, и высаживать завезённые растения в среде без конкуренции. Такой же подход требовался и к плантациям пробкового дуба. С одной стороны, крайне не экологично, что пришлось выкорчевать сотни гектар реликтового леса. Однако, с другой стороны, такой подход позволил новым растениям произрастать на первых этапах без конкурентной среды. Конечно, через быстрое время взошли семена старого леса, которые оставались в почве, и тогда к интродуцированным растениям присоединились истинные хозяева леса, произростающие здесь тысячи лет.

И вот уже почти сто лет дендропарк живёт в сочетании аборигенных деревьев, вроде грабов и буков, и с интродуцентной растительностью, такой, как кипарисы, секвойи, бамбуки, пальмы, эвкалипты, акации и десятки других. Если на заре становления эксперимента за лесом ухаживали, то сейчас все растения живут своей жизнью, по собственным законам. К примеру, если растёт роща секвой, то под деревьями нет даже травинки, настолько секвойи отвоевали своё место под солнцем и на земле, не давая другим шанса на жизнь (в том числе, они выделяют фитонциды, из-за чего под секвойями нет комаров). А глицинии жадно паразитируют на деревьях, питаясь соками деревьев, сокращая их срок жизни. Одним из самых необычных примеров дикого закона жизни растений стал самый толстый тополь в мире (по мнению сотрудников Сочинского нацпарка). Представьте, охват ствола этого дерева — более тринадцати метров! Притом что возраст этого тополя — всего порядка 80 лет. Закономерный вопрос, а как же тогда тополь вымахал до таких исполинских размеров? Ответ — он каннибал, ну почти. Когда-то это было обычное дерево, но в процессе роста ствола он стал подбираться к близрастущим букам, а касаясь, начинал поглощать их, или как говорит Владимир — «хавать». Вот так этот тополь съел несколько буков поблизости, вобрав в себя их древесину и соки, став гигантом без моральных терзаний за содеянное. Удивительная природа!

Плантация и люди

Про дендропарк поговорили, а теперь вернёмся к основной теме — плантации пробкового дуба. Изначально первые посадки дуба (из Португалии) высадили в 1929 году, но результата не было из-за кабанов и грызунов. Животные просто раскапывали жёлуди, которые высаживали специалисты. Став опытнее, следующая партия высадки происходила в глиняных горшочках, дабы животным было тяжелее добраться до желанных желудей. На пике пробковой промышленности в лесопарке было задействовано около шестисот гектар земли под выращивание пробкового дуба! Это были как склоны горы Овсянникова (тот отрог, который защищает лес от ветра), так и сам дендропарк, где росли привезённые экспериментальные растения.

Стоит упомянуть о том, как была устроена сама промышленность в Сочи и СССР. Вообще, на территории Юга Советского союза было 7 плантаций пробкового дуба: несколько в Абхазии, Грузии, Азербайджане и самом Сочи. Кудепстинские плантации были самыми крупными и остались таковыми по сей день, правда, в заброшенном состоянии.

Для создания пробковой индустрии приглашали специалистов по сельскому хозяйству со всей страны. Только на Кудепстинских плантациях работало более трёхсот человек, включая агрономов, водителей, цеховиков и многих других людей, необходимых для поддерживания промышленной инфраструктуры. Примечательно то, как выкорчёвывали местный лес для подготовки плантации к выращиванию пробки. Для этих целей использовали буйволов как эффективную силу, и они же волокли деревья на ближайшую пилораму. Там производили доски, из которых уже строили одно-двухэтажные бараки в сёлах Дубравный и Каштаны для размещения приезжих специалистов и рабочих.

В селе Дубравном работал цех по переработке коры в стружку, там же производили несколько конечных изделий. В основном цех специализировался на создании стелек для обуви и накладок под каблуки (вроде амортизации). Ещё изготавливали основы для мячиков под игру в хоккей на траве. Хотелось бы написать, что здесь же производили пробки для винной индустрии, но нет, технологии ферментации дуба, необходимого процесса для безопасного использования пробки, контактирующей с пищевым продуктом, до СССР не дошла, поэтому готовые пробки для массовой промышленности закупались во Франции и Испании.

Сочинские плантации давали в год максимум 300 тонн пробковой коры, а в среднем — 60 тонн. Если цифры не впечатляют, то вспомните специфичность самой коры: несмотря на свой объём, это пористый объект, потому относительно лёгкий, так что даже 10 тонн коры — это уже целый склад. Плантации были поделены на десять секций. Раз в год снимали кору дуба с одной из секций и последующие десять лет к этому участку не притрагивались, дабы дуб успел восстановить и отрастить кору.

Важнейшим моментом в успехе пробковой промышленности являлась вырубка любых деревьев и кустов в радиусе десяти метров от пробкового дуба. Дуб должен был быть освещён со всех сторон, никакие другие растения не должны были создавать ему тень, иначе кора, получающая недостаточно света, начинала гнить и становилась непригодной для заготовок. Именно этот факт во многом погубил плантации для целевого применения человеком.

В 1983 году был создан Сочинский национальный парк, в состав которого, в том числе, попали плантации пробкового дуба. А в Нацпарке, как мы знаем, нельзя ничего вырубать — в этом и суть организации — защищать природу от уничтожения. В итоге плантации начали потихоньку зарастать, а потом пришли сложные 90-е, которые окончательно поставили точку в производстве пробковой стружки, развалили местные совхозы и цеха.

На данный момент мы с Владимиром пришли к мысли, что пробковую промышленность можно восстановить хоть сегодня, главное — найти инвесторов и договорится с Нацпарком, но этого делать в современных реалиях не нужно. Дело в том, что нынешний дендропарк великолепен в своём запущенном состоянии, когда природа взяла верх над попытками человека обуздать растения. Самым мудрым решением на сегодняшний день — это не трогая лес, просто аккуратно оборудовать его для экскурсионных целей. Т. е. проложить удобные тропинки, поставить указатели, информационные стенды и сделать немного лавочек. Пробковую промышленность уже потеряли, чёрт с ней, но мы можем сохранить уникальный лес, сделав его общедоступным и познавательным.

Кстати, говоря про прелести дендропарка, не могу не упомянуть ещё о нескольких значимых деталях. Помните, в начале рассказа я писал о том, что здесь залегают породы песчаника? Вот как раз из этого песчаника древние жители этих территорий (+3500 лет до н. э.) создавали знаменитые дольмены, используемые для ритуальных целей. Самый известный мегалит в Кудепстинском дендропарке, так называемый Культовый камень. Он похож на своеобразный каменный диван. Но, помимо этого достаточно знаменитого объекта — Владимир привёл нас к нескольким крупным, но ещё не изученным с археологической точки зрения дольменам. К сожалению, они разрушены временем или вовсе не достроены, но сам факт того, что в дендропарке есть рукотворные объекты возрастом более 5 000 лет — будоражит!

Другая приятная деталь леса — озёра. По лесу бежит несколько ручейков, которые питают искусственно созданные водохранилища. Изначально их использовали для орошений плантаций, а сегодня некоторые озёра уже спущены, а те, что остались, либо заросли, либо имеют статус пожарного водохранилища (тушить лес). Хоть озерца маленькие, они очень уютные, у них приятно посидеть и подумать о чём-то своём под шелест листьев. Из примечательной водной живности, за прогулку мы увидели пару болотных черепах и рыбок гамбузии, спасшую Сочи от малярии в начале XX века.

Гулять по лесу особенно приятно, если есть возможность утолять жажду настоящей минеральной водичкой! Такая тут также имеется. Рядом с зарослями бамбука бежит родник с водичкой, после которой на камнях остаётся ржавчина. Это говорит нам о том, что вода насыщенна железом. Владимир проводил химическое исследование данного родника в лаборатории, и заключение следующие — пить воду можно и даже нужно, она очень полезна!

Мы провели в лесу 3 часа, слушая рассказы Владимира о деревьях, людях, промышленности, истории прошлого и надежд на будущее. Если подытожить, то Кудепстинский дендропарк — это важная страница истории Сочи. Сначала когда-то тут были представители дольменной культуры, которые чувствовали силу этой земли и строили мегалиты. Потом пришли новые люди, которые выкорчевали весь местный лес, засадив его растениями-иммигрантами, и начали развивать пробковую промышленность. А сейчас есть мы, которые дали возможность лесу жить своей жизнью, но после антропогенного вмешательства.

Симбиоз природы и влияния человека – это формула рождения Кудепстинского дендропарка. Его уникальность невозможно переоценить. Если будете в районе Хосты и Кудепсты — обязательно загляните, вы не пожалеете.

 

Фото: Данила Поваров

87 комментариев

  • Ия:

    Сегодня идем туда гулять. Спасибо за великолепную статью.

  • Аноним:

    Вы, батенька , хоть бы проконсультировались со специалистами, прежде чем писать ересь про тополь, который съел буки. Это в принципе невозможно, даже физиологически. Особенно через кору тополя. 21 век на дворе, а вы средневековую статью пишите.

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