Очевидно, что сейчас всем сложно. Бизнесу ещё сложнее. Локальному бизнесу же максимально сложно. Но, как бы клишировано это ни звучало, любые трудности — это, в том числе, и возможности. Риски, неожиданные изменения, смены формата, новые подходы, новые ниши — в ход идёт всё. Дух предпринимательства работает на пределе. Это не только новые реалии, но и собирательный образ клиентов Альфа-Банка. Людей умных и свободных. Тех, кто не боялся кардинально менять свою жизнь. Находим и рассказываем их истории в нашем совместном с Альфа-Банком проекте.
В этом выпуске рассказ Антона Пружинина, который после многих лет карьеры успешного шеф-повара решил собирать чай в горах Сочи.
МАТЕРИАЛ ПОДГОТОВЛЕН ПРИ ПОДДЕРЖКЕ
Я родился в Санкт-Петербурге, на Фонтанке. Родители — такие типичные питерские интеллигенты. Моему отцу становится плохо, когда он уезжает из Санкт-Петербурга. Говорит, что не может без вида на петербургские арки. Моё же юношество вращалось вокруг физики и фортепиано. Поступил на физмат Бауманского университета. Думал, если не сложится там, то уйду в музыку. А потом, в 1993 году, когда мне было 17 лет, я оказался в Италии.
1993 год, развал всего. В России беда с продуктами. Пусть я и родился в обеспеченной семье, но это всё равно ощущалось. И тут я оказался в пышущей Италии, где прилавки буквально ломятся от свежих овощей, сыров, всяких вкусностей. Начал внезапно понимать, что меня еда как-то цепляет, трогает. Таким же образом, как и физика с музыкой.
Я попал в большой рыбный ресторан во Флоренции. Поначалу работал в цеху, где перерабатывали рыбу. Там были огромные ванные, наполненные различными морскими обитателями. Тяжёлый труд. Потом меня переставили на секцию с пастой — там было проще, стоишь, катаешь всякие феттуччине, капеллини и прочие лингвини. Это интересный опыт, который стал моими первыми шагами в поварской стезе.
Но долго я в том ресторане не проработал. Тогда в Италии был кризис перепроизводства. Очень многие вещи просто не находили покупателей. Решил на этом подзаработать. Нашёл какой-то автобус с водителем — у меня самого не было прав — отправились в Римини, где обитали туристы из России. Там я организовал рейсы на стоки модных брендов. Думал поначалу, что никого не будет на первом рейсе, но он оказался забит полностью. Деньги на этом получилось заработать хорошие. Благодаря такому доходу стал знакомиться с кухней с другой стороны, посещал лучшие рестораны Италии, подружился с некоторыми шеф-поварами, которые приглашали к себе на кухню. Италия подарила мне понимание, что эмоции, чувства можно вызывать не только каким-нибудь джазом, но и вкусами.
В 1997 году я вернулся в Россию, но не в Санкт-Петербург. Моя сестра, Татьяна Курбатская, открыла ресторан «Марио» в Москве. Это был самый дорогой ресторан конца девяностых, на улице Климашкина, с большой террасой. А так как я был единственный в семье с опытом работы на кухне, то сестра взяла меня помощником. К тому же, я хорошо разговаривал на итальянском, так что стал ещё и фактически переводчиком между русским персоналом и итальянскими шеф-поварами. Сестре же было интересно именно запустить проект, поэтому, пробыв там пару месяцев, она поставила меня решать все организационные вопросы вместо неё. Меня же всё сильнее и сильнее тянуло на кухню. Я учился у всех этих итальянских шеф-поваров тонкостям и нюансам. Это был огромный опыт. Благодаря тем двум-трём годам я и стал шеф-поваром.
2013 год. Я уже открывающий шеф-повар со статусом, который специализируется именно на запуске проектов. Москва, Санкт-Петербург, покатался и по другим городам России. И тут меня позвали в Сочи. Приглашение пришло от London Restaurant Group. Они хотели, чтобы я им подготовил к Олимпиаде их проекты. Сначала был бар «Лондон», затем SeaZone. Обновил меню, что-то переделал в баре, поработал с оборудованием. Думал, что уеду быстро, но появлялось что-то ещё, ещё. Моё «годик поживу» затягивалось всё сильнее и сильнее. Стали приглашать в другие проекты.
Одним из тех, кто звал в свои проекты, был Слава Галкин. Он постоянно ходил в мои рестораны, вызывал меня в зал, чтобы похлопать. В итоге он меня утянул на чашку чая, за которой рассказал, что у него есть в Красной Поляне свой отель «Династия», первый этаж которого хочет переделать под ресторан. Слава хотел, чтобы этим рестораном занялся именно я.
В основном, в ресторанах я проводил всего пару месяцев. Открывал, выводил на точку безубыточности и уходил. Но с «Династией» я задержался практически на год. И как только собирался уходить, понял, что влюбился в Красную Поляну. Мне нравились эти полупустые улочки в период после Олимпиады, эта природа. Понял, что хочу жить здесь. Начал отмечать в себе какие-то изменения. До этого я всегда был шеф-поваром с большим окладом, но всё равно, открыть свой проект — боялся, что ли. А вот в Красной Поляне понял, что хочу создать что-то своё.
Большое влияние на меня оказал отец Славы Александр Акимович (Александр Акимович Галкин — один из самых известных старожилов Красной Поляны, учредитель горнолыжного комплекса «Альпика-Сервис» — прим. SCAPP). Или просто Акимыч. Он смог утащить меня в горы. Тогда я по сути чуть ли не жил на кухне, из-за чего стал чаще задумываться о своём здоровье. Акимыч предложил мне пойти в поход. Однодневный, на Ачишхо. Согласился. Так мы и стали регулярно ходить в походы. Всегда однодневные, всегда на Ачишхо или Аибгу. Выходили рано утром, а возвращались уже под закрытие подъёмников. Меня поражало, с какой лёгкостью Акимыч, которому тогда было за 60, взлетал на все подъёмы. Ещё и ждал меня там. Ходили мы с ним так два месяца. Потом Акимыч уехал в Краснодар, но сказал, чтобы я продолжал ходить. «Маршруты ты знаешь».
И я продолжил. Брал с собой маленький рюкзачок и ходил в походы один на несколько дней. Тут и случился окончательный перелом. Когда ты два-три дня в одиночестве, возникают мысли о том, кто ты вообще такой, чем занимаешься, к чему идёшь. Я решил, что пора заканчивать свою успешную карьеру шеф-повара и делать что-то своё. И тут мне повезло с ещё одним знакомством. В горные вылазки со мной стал ходить мой краснополянский приятель Кирилл Ермаков. Через несколько походов я узнал, что он, оказывается, травник в третьем поколении. Кирилл мне стал показывать различные местные травы, рассказывать о них. «Смотри, здесь иван-чай растёт, он не такой, какой в других регионах России», — и всё в таком духе. Так я начал собирать травы.
Поначалу — да и долгое ещё время — это было просто хобби. Собирал травы для себя. Я всё-таки ещё оставался поваром. Кирилл следил за тем, чтобы травы сочетались в плане влияния на организм, а я подбирал по вкусовым характеристикам. Собирали дикоросы на высоте более 1 200 метров: листья клевера, мать-и-мачеха, иван-чай, цветы каштана, листья ежевики. Много чего. Кирилл объяснил мне, что если сорвать листья иван-чая и бросить их в кипяток — это будет просто трава. Нужна правильная ферментация. И это оказалось целой наукой. Мало просто высушить дикоросы. Для начала нужно отжать из них сок — поначалу делали это руками, — затем скатать шарик определённой формы, обмотать пищевой плёнкой, положить в сухое место на много часов, а то и дней — вот тогда только и можно отправлять на сушку. Так мы создали наши первые сборы.
Собирали мы уже больше, чем нужно было для личного пользования. Я стал дарить эти сборы своим друзьям, знакомым поварам. Фидбэк был очень хороший, говорили, что сборы — бомбические. Постепенно у меня стали покупать травы знакомые из ресторанной индустрии. А я стал понимать, что из этого может выйти интересный такой бизнес. Параллельно с этим у меня, кстати, развивались и другие бизнес-истории. Запустил парочку столовых, небольшую кофейню в Поляне. И все эти проекты я делал в качестве клиента «Альфа-Банка». Даже не было каких-то сомнений при выборе банковского партнёра. Альфа-Банком я пользовался уже много лет и ни разу не столкнулся с какими-то проблемами.
Но для начала важно было систематизировать процесс в плане оборудования. Кирилл сделал специальную доску с выемками. Когда в ней протираешь листья, то они определённым образом скручиваются и остаются целыми. Затем нужно было что-то делать с процессом отжима сока. Условные 40 килограмм травы ты руками уже не выжмешь. Мы нашли специалистов, которые помогли сделать нам роллеры. Причём для каждого вида дикоросов подбирали свой роллер. Дальше — сушка. Условный иван-чай после ферментации — это тяжёлая мокрая масса. Да, можно её выложить тонким слоем где-то на неделю в теньке — так почти все и делают — но это приводит к тому, что начинаются и всякие неполезные процессы внутри травы. Решили эту проблему с помощью старого холодильника: поставили внутри него вентилятор-«улитку», сетку, на которую «вешали» растения. В итоге, сушка проходила за несколько часов. И без нагрева. Благодаря этому наш чай стал ещё и полностью сыроедческим, который можно заваривать как холодной водой, так и горячей. А ещё это делает его очень полезным для организма.
Для ферментации я выделил помещение в своей столовой. Ещё был важный вопрос по поводу легальности всего этого. Аибга — это Сочинский национальный парк, и промышленный сбор чего-либо там запрещён. Но Курорт Красная Поляна и «Роза Хутор» дали нам разрешение собирать травы на территории, что была им передана Нацпарком. Так мы составили список из 22 растений, которые стали собирать.
В 2017 году мы зарегистрировали ООО «Краснополянский травник». Разработали несколько видов упаковок, нарисовали логотип — спящий среди травы медведь, как вольный автопортрет — и стали продавать наш чай через сувенирные магазины в «Роза Хутор». Примерно в тот же период у нас появился первый наёмный сотрудник — девушка, что помогала со сбором трав. Сейчас, кстати, она управляющая нашим цехом.
Пусть наш подход уже был довольно серьёзным, а нам регулярно писали по поводу того, где можно заказать чай, до 2020 года я всё равно не воспринимал это как бизнес. Период карантина поменял моё представление. Во-первых, мы отладили все процессы. Во-вторых, видимо, к тому моменту у аудитории в целом выросло понимание чая. То есть люди научились разбираться в вине, кофе, но вот с чаем долгое время история была более простая. А вот в 2020 году я стал отмечать, что начал формироваться запрос. Люди стали замечать разницу между обычным аптечным сбором и хорошим чаем. Гости краснополянских ресторанов начали требовать именно что хороший, горный чай.
Ещё, как мне кажется, сказалась та небольшая социальная миссия, что на нас выпала в карантин. Тогда всё было закрыто, люди сидели без работы, денег. И многие местные семьи из Красной Поляны, зная, что нам всегда нужны дикоросы, стали собирать их для нас. Чтобы понять, какую справедливую стоимость нам надо платить, я провёл эксперимент: засёк время, отправился в горы, попробовал оценить, сколько реально килограмм можно собрать за условных пять часов. Тогда в карантин на нас успело поработать много местных. И эта традиция сохранилась. У нас до сих пор есть много местных сборщиков на своеобразном «аутсорсе».
Да, сейчас, наверное, это бизнес. Пусть и больше для души, чем для денег. В конце концов, у нас до сих пор толком нет названия. А ещё это классная имиджевая история: собирать чай — что может делать шеф-повар на пенсии. Пусть процессы уже давно отлажены, у нас есть несколько цехов и много сборщиков-фрилансеров, я сам постоянно отправляюсь в горы на «охоту» за травами. Даже несмотря на то, что сейчас я переехал из Поляны в Весёлое.
Когда я ехал в Сочи, думал, что задержусь тут на год максимум. А уже почти что 10 лет прошло. Влюбился в Поляну, купил себе домик здесь. Даже перестал куда-то выезжать. Я открыл для себя горы, открыл для себя чай. И больше не хотел уже ничего другого.
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Предоставлять свободу своим мыслям и с умом распоряжаться свободой.
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