Новое место: Устричный бар «Кашалот»


Отсутствие официантов (их функцию выполняют сами повара и бармены), номерная кодировка в меню (устрицу номер один не желаете?), изменчивый ассортимент, обновляющийся чуть ли не каждый день, — устричный бар на улице Орджоникидзе, лучше посещать без каких-либо признаков социофобии. Классический small talk — именно через беседу в «Кашалоте» стараются приобщить к культуре потребления морепродуктов, на удивление, ещё бесконечно далёкой для местных жителей.

Всё начинается с вывески. Почему именно «Кашалот»? Плавает он везде, к одному конкретному месту не привязан — так и в баре стараются избегать какой-либо геолокационной идентификации. Сейчас «сезон» на Дальнем Востоке? Значит аквариум «Кашалота» будет заполнен устрицами и спизулой из Приморья. Аквариум — это не вычурный словесный оборот, а первое, что встречает гостей у входа в бар (окей, входов, на самом деле два, но не важно). Над аквариумом мелом расписан ассортимент на текущий день. Своеобразное «грифельное» меню обновляется каждые несколько дней: сегодня можно урвать сочного камчатского краба, а завтра, например, свежайшие гребешки. Неизменным остаётся лишь наличие устриц. Хотя и эта позиция будет обновляться, как только сойдёт сезон на Дальнем Востоке и пойдёт «урожай», например, в Новой Зеландии.

 

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В «Кашалоте» отказались от упоминания в меню видов устриц. Вместо сухих названий идёт номерной шифр: от стандартной по размерам «Устрицы №1» до полукилограммового гиганта в виде «Устрицы №4». Это такая провокация к общению. Именно поэтому с выбором посетителям помогают не официанты, а сами повара, способные рассказать о том, как эту самую устрицу правильно есть и с чем её сочетать. Самые любопытные могут сесть за открытую барно-кухонную стойку и понаблюдать за процессом открытия устрицы, попутно узнавая десятки фактов об «устричной» кулинарной культуре. Самая настоящая friendly-атмосфера. Располагает к себе и интерьер бара: обилие света, высокие окна, много зелени и дерева и очень компактный зал на 20 персон (а после летнего сезона ребята добавят ещё и камин).

 

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В «Кашалоте» проэкспериментировали с десятком видов миксов, подавали устрицы и с карамелизированной сливой, и с беконом, но в итоге пришли к пониманию, что самая «трушная» устрица — это дикая устрица. Но не переживайте — если вас смущает своеобразная текстура свежей устрицы, то её могут запечь под сырным соусом. Всё это касается так называемой «дикой» части меню. Помимо деликатесов в своём естественном виде, есть в «Кашалоте» и десятки других позиций: татаки из гребешка (это блюдо особо рекомендует шеф-повар Олег Побоев, известный по работе в Follow me cafe и «Берлоге»), севиче из лосося, кокиль из морепродуктов и привычные мидии (хотя в баре советуют обратить внимание на более оригинальные вонголе). Можно найти в меню и совсем уж удивительную позицию в виде перепёлки: как объясняют ребята, в рационе кашалота один процент составляют птицы — так и в их меню затерялось такое вот нестандартное предложение.

 

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Разумеется, ни одна «устричная» история не может обойтись без хорошей винной карты. На данный момент в «Кашалоте» собрано более 60 наименований с самой разнообразной географией (Италия, Франция, ЮАР, Аргентина, весь стандартный набор). И тут снова в дело вступает магия общения — как только вы выбрали себе наиболее симпатичного друга из аквариума, сразу же обращайтесь к барменам за помощью в выборе идеального аккомпанемента. Ну а если вино — это не совсем ваше, то шеф-бармен Тарас Горшков может предложить что-то из своих авторских коктейлей.

 


Сочи, ул. Орджоникидзе, 24/1
+7 (989) 161 80 08

   

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